Tag Archives: Pub review

Pub Review: Watching the World Cup at The Twankey Bar

For my last World Cup viewing I chose The Twankey Bar at the Taj Hotel in Cape Town, a bar I had wanted to visit on a previous occasion, but which was closed for stocktake on that day (the Germany versus England match).  Last night it was the 3rd and 4th play-off between Germany and Uruguay, and the five Germans at The Twankey Bar were delighted with their team’s 3-2 win.

I did not know that the Widow Twankey is a well-known character in Alladin.   According to Wikipedia, she is a “pantomime dame portrayed as a man” (read more here). The Widow Twankey figurine is a feature outside on the erstwhile Board of Executors building in which The Twankey Bar is housed, and gave the bar its name.

The Twankey Bar has a swanky feel, as you step into it from the corner of Adderley and Wale Streets, in a  venue separated from the Taj Hotel.   It has beautiful wooden floors, marble table and bar tops, red leather tub chairs (uncomfortably high and very sharp arm rests), bar chairs and some of the other tub chairs are in silver leather, a silver painted pressed steel ceiling, beautiful art deco lamps, and silk-like curtains in a deep red and silver.   The silver and red theme is not carried through in the staff uniforms, which are a creme shirt, black cap and black pants, odd given the colourful uniforms the staff wear in Mint and Bombay Brasserie inside the Hotel.   A lone black and white photograph of a boat decorates one wall, and echoes the “seafood” theme, probably picked up from the anchor in the Twankey statuette.  I would have liked a little more light, especially to read the bill.

We were given the choice of rugby or soccer, as the initial guests in the Bar were not watching any sport.  When they left, soccer won, and the volume was turned up.   Nothing in The Twankey Bar reflected the world’s largest sport event taking place in the country.  With five of us in the Bar during the match, we certainly made the “gees”, but there were not enough customers on the rainy and cold Cape Town night to give it the spirit.   But when your team wins, you don’t need other people’s “gees”!   It was an exciting match, and kept one holding thumbs and begging Paul the Octopus to make his prediction of a win for Germany come true, his seventh correct prediction! 

The menu is a simple yet elegantly designed one, laminated, and I was encouraged by the Manager Leslie Heaven to take it home with me so that I did not have to write it all down.  The menu states “Seafood * Champagne * Guinness * Oysters” on the front, and this gives one a feel of its focus immediately.  The manager told me it is an Irish pub, due to the Guinness served.   The Seafood focus is odd for a pub, but it is only Calamari (R55), Tempura Prawns (R85), and the Tuna Tatiki (R85) that meet this description.  On the table were heavily spiced cashew nuts, wasabi peanuts and chilli poppers, encouraging one to drink more beer to get over the spiciness.  On the reverse side it refers to its “Tapas Menu”.

Our food and beer were brought quickly after placing the order, with new-looking quality cutlery and very small material serviettes.   The Guacamole and spicy tortilla dish (R50) was massive – despite having asked for the least spicy tortillas, they were still pretty hot, and the manager organised some toast instead.  The guacamole was spicy too, with a strong taste of onion.  I am used to guacamole being smooth – The Twankey Bar’s was chunky.   The Quail spring rolls were served with chilli plum sauce, and were an expensive choice at R 65 for four small rolls, but were enjoyable.  I liked the Karoo Lamb Samoosas, four small ones costing R 55, not having any spices in them.   The serving of four large prawns came with a very diluted soy sauce, but I was brought the real thing when I requested it.    Oysters cost R90 for six.  Other “Small plates” one can order are Chicken Tikka Wrap served with mint chutney (R55), Tequila Salmon Gravlax (R75) and Jalapeno Poppers (R45).  What I liked was that as far as pub food goes, this was the most creative menu of all the pubs I visited during my World Cup journey.  What I disliked was the spiciness of almost all the dishes, limiting my choice.  

The Menu is dominated by the drinks on offer; including ten Cocktails all costing R40; four non-alcoholic ones (R30 each); two draught beers (Guinness at R 29 and Jack Black at R 20); and bottled beer – Heineken, Peroni and Windhoek are very reasonably priced at R 20, while the Brewers Union Unfiltered, Dark and Stepheiss (sic) all are charged at R 40, the same price at which it is sold at &Union up the road.   One can order Moet et Chandon at a precious R 225 per glass, or at R 900 per bottle, and even splurge on a bottle of Dom Perignon Brut Rose at R 8000!  Seven of the thirteen Methode Cap Classique wines offered can be ordered by the glass, and seem expensive – Pierre Jourdan Cuvee Brut and the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel are the cheapest at R 50 per glass, while the Teddy Hall Blanc de Blanc costs R 100 per glass.  I was proud to see Melissa Nelsen’s Genevieve Blanc de Blanc listed – what a prestige for the new sparkling wine producer who only launched her brand earlier this year!   A small selection of red and white wines is offered, by the glass and per bottle, and commendably the vintages are specified.  The prices seemed more reasonable here – for example the 2007 Villiera Merlot costs R 35 by the glass, and the Warwick First Lady Red Blend 2008 costs R40.  

I was grateful when the Manager took over looking after our table when our waitress seemed more interested in chatting to her colleague and watching the soccer.  She was asked to bring the prawn tempura dish to the table in the halftime, but this did not happen and had to be requested.   While the World Cup is history after tonight, it surprised me that, generally speaking, bar staff do not seem to understand that one would like to hear the commentator during a match – a problem I picked up at Harvey’s Bar and Salt Vodka Bar too.  It irritated me that they kept coming to ask something and even blocked the TV screen during what was a most exciting match.   At one stage we had to ask them to stop the icemaking machine because it made such a noise.   It was one of few pubs (also Salt Vodka Bar, and Pure at Hout Bay Manor) in which I saw a manager, and whilst he could have been more assertive with his staff about the disturbances, he was good at reading customer irritations, coming to check with us, and acting upon feedback immediately.

The Twankey Bar is not a food destination in itself, but would be the start or end to a special evening in town.  Recently it was decided that The Twankey Bar should stay open until 23h00, as guests were popping in for a late snack.  The food is expensive and spiciness dominates, but the drinks are more reasonably priced. 

The Twankey Bar, Taj Hotel, corner Wale and Adderley Streets, Cape Town.  Tel (021) 819-2000. www.tajhotels.com  (The website exaggerates, in my opinion, when it describes The Twankey Bar as a “seafood restaurant”.   It also claims to have “sublime jazz”, but we did not experience any music).  Open from 11h00 – 23h00, Mondays – Saturdays.

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com

Pub Review: Watching the World Cup at the Mount Nelson Hotel

The Germany versus England World Cup match deserved a very special venue, and my first choice was the Twankey Bar at the Taj Hotel.  Luckily I called to check that it had a TV, only to be told that it would be closed due to a stocktake!   My next choice was the Mount Nelson Hotel, and I felt I was stepping into the lions’ den (pardon the pun) in watching the match there.  Luckily I had a fellow German supporter, and we were ecstatic with the 4-1 outcome, even if it should have been 4-2. 

The Mount Nelson probably is the most English-style of all Cape Town’s 5-star hotels, and its security staff with their safari-style helmets salute as one drives in.  A friendly front-of-house staff member took me through to the Lord Nelson Room, where the soccer matches can be viewed by the hotel’s guests.  Nothing about the hotel exterior or inside gave one the feeling that the world’s largest sporting tournament was currently taking place in the city.   The chairs and couches were set up in a U-shape in the room, and small side tables were set up with plates and serviettes, snacks like chips and nuts, a snack menu, and later even a child-like plate of sweets was put out on the tables.  Having Rudi Liebenberg as the top chef at the hotel was not evident in what was served in the Lord Nelson Room.

The Lord Nelson Room has a Tudor design, with wood-clad walls and wooden beams on the ceiling.  It looks old-fashioned, the beige couches interspersed with rose-fabric covered chairs, and the closed curtains gave it a dreary feel.   I arrived an hour ahead of the match, and observed the barman set up his little bar (everything was brought in from another section of the hotel).  I was not asked if I wanted to order at all, and had to ask for a cappuccino and some water.   A misunderstanding was efficiently and charmingly sorted out by the hotel’s Guest Relations staff member Osnat Gropper. 

The World Cup menu has a very small selection of food options: potato samoosas cost R40, Southern Fried Chicken R50, the Mount Nelson Club sandwich costs R85, spicy Thai style fish cakes cost R60, a Ground Beef Burger costs R90 (the Mount Nelson burger once was the most expensive in the city), “baby gem lettuce” (no idea what this could be) at R65, a snack platter for four costs R230 (but it is not specified what it consists of), and mushroom empanadas (the waiter had to find out that these were mushroom-filled pastry parcels).   One can also order a snack plate of biltong, droe wors and spiced cashew nuts for R60.  The empanadas were outstanding, four served piping hot, in a white bowl, without any attempt to make them look attractive, but were excellent value at R40, the best-tasting pub food on my World Cup journey to date.

The prices of the drinks are not printed on the bar menu, so the waiter had to write them down for me.  One has no idea of what is available to order, as the bar seems to be hidden around a wall in the room.   Amstel, Castle Lite, Castle, Hansa and Black Lable all cost R19, while Heineken and Peroni cost R22, prices which were on a par with the other pubs I have visited, a surprise, given one’s expectation that it would be far more expensive at the hotel.

For the Mount Nelson Hotel being a 5-star hotel, and having guests attending the TIME, Fortune, and CNN Global Forum possibly in the Lord Nelson Room watching the soccer, it seemed terribly amateurish – the waiter was desperate for business (the room never filled up completely), and begged guests to sit down, and saying that the sweets and snacks on the table were free; the lack of presentation of the food other than in a functional container; the complete lack of proactive service; lukewarm beer served, as it had not cooled down enough as it comes warm from somewhere else and was put on ice just before the match started.  No Manager ever came into the Room to check on how things were going, except for the score!   I definitely would not return for the World Cup viewing, but am tempted to try Chef Rudi’s special winter menu after the World Cup.

Mount Nelson Hotel, Orange Street, Tel 021 483-1000.  www.mountnelson.co.za

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com

Pub Review: Watching the World Cup at Foresters Arms

Foresters Arms, or Forries as it is commonly known, is a Newlands landmark, having been built as an inn in 1880, as a halfway station between Cape Town and Simonstown.  With its English Tudor style building, I chose it as the pub to watch the England versus Slovenia match.  

I had not been to Forries since an Ikeys/Maties Intervarsity rugby match about 35 years ago, and it felt as if the interior of the pub had not changed one bit since then!   It comes across as a goldmine, into which no money has been re-invested for years, at least not as far as its decor goes.   Its wagon-wheel lamps, black and white photographs of the original inn, its wooden benches and tables, set up school-wise so that one sees the backs of the persons in front of one, and old-fashioned menu design all date the pub.  I was disappointed with the lack of “gees’ of the predominantly England supporters, even though the pub had lots of flags up outside the building, the staff wore soccer shirts (the only pub visited that showed its World Cup spirit in this way), and England was winning. 

In addition to the very extensive menu, a reduced World Cup laminated menu is presented.  The reduced menu offers 200 gram baskets of crumbed mushrooms for R 47, and barbeque ribs for R 43, and a 250 gram basket of peri-peri chicken wings for R 40.  A 250 gram “super rump” steak sounds good value at R 78, while three wrap choices cost around R 60.  A Moroccan chicken salad costs R 58.  I saw some patrons order chips, probably the most popular item on the menu, which cost R 17/R34.

The main menu, whilst offering varied choices, almost seems overdone, especially as I hardly saw anyone eating during or before the match.   It offers every possible food type, starting with breakfast options ranging from R 28 – R 49; eight starters range from R 35 – R 58, and include chicken livers, mussels, springbok carpaccio; all steaks are 250 gram, and the most expensive is the fillet steak at R 135, not inexpensive at that price.   Salads range in price from R58 – R 65, and it is surprising there is such a choice available, given that most patrons I saw were male.   Fourteen pizza options are offered, the most expensive being a Figaro Pizza (bacon, blue cheese, and figs).  I had the pizza with a mushroom, asparagus and avocado topping, and was extremely disappointed – I could not taste the asparagus, yet tasted something in a sauce, covered in cheese.  It tasted most unappetising, and was not attractive either, yet cost R 68.   Fish and chips cost R 60.  Schnitzel, chilli steak and steak rolls are also available.  As if this is not enough choice, they have a section called “A la carte” – was the rest of the menu not that already? – with a mix-match of Gourmet Karoo Lamb Burger (R65), calamari strips, tiger prawns (8 for R 135), steak and kidney pie, chicken pie, mussels, gammon steak, green chicken curry and pork ribs.  A carvery at R 95 is another option, but is only served on Sundays and public holidays.  The manager told me that the steak and kidney pie, the Forries pizza and their burgers are by far the most popular menu items.

The winelist is introduced as follows: “The wines we have selected have also been accredited by the Platter Wine Guide”.  One cannot imagine anyone drinking other than beer at Forries, but they do sell some very inexpensive wines by the glass (R18 for Robertson Chapel white and rose), Savanha Chardonnay costs R 22,  and Spier Cabernet Sauvignon and Barista cost R 35 each.  John B wines cost R23.   But Forries also stocks Moet et Chandon at R 700; Simonsig and Graham Beck sparkling wine at around R 200; Spier Private Cellar shiraz costs R 230.  Corkage is charged at R 30.

“Forries offers the largest selection of draught beer in the Cape”, according to the winelist, and its 500ml Amstel and Windhoek cost R20,50; Castle costs R18,50; Hansa R18; Mitchels R20; Peroni R22,50; Pilsner Urquell R24,50; and Guinness R25,50 – these prices are very good value compared to bottled beers served at other pubs.   The quantity of beer is not specified nor requested when ordering, and I was only told afterwards that a 330ml size was available for all the draught beers.

It is hard to imagine what attracts clients to Forries, other than the tradition of going there from varsity days, good parking availability, and its good value and range of draught beer.  It cannot be the food (the worst of all the pubs to date) nor the decor.   I rated it luke-warm on World Cup “gees”, and nothing would drag me back to Forries again.

Foresters Arms, 57 Newlands Avenue, Newlands.  Tel 021 689-5949.  No website, but www.forries.co.za will go live in “about a month”!

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com

Pub Review: Watching the World Cup at Pure, Hout Bay Manor

Having seen two World Cup matches at Paulaner Braeuhaus in the Waterfront, I was looking for a new venue to see the match between Germany and Ghana in the past week.   I had heard good things of Pure at the Hout Bay Manor Hotel, and its German chef and GM Alex Mueller, so chose this as the venue. I had not been there in years, not since Rick and Collette Taylor owned the hotel.

What a mistake I made to choose the venue, as far as World Cup “gees” goes, as I was the only person in the hotel watching the match on the massive screen filling the whole wall of the lounge.    Only one couple was dining in Pure restaurant.

On arriving outside the Hotel, a security guard followed me into the hotel, and appeared quite unwelcoming and confrontational, asking me what I wanted at the hotel!  She disappeared, so I settled down in the lounge.  I had seen the photographs on the hotel’s website, and was told that the decor had been done by Block & Chisel.   It is hard to describe, other than that the lounge decor is very busy, with a dominant African design feel to it.   For me, the oranges and pinks in the upholstery clashed with the red and white curtains, and while I liked the African dress hanging on one wall, I thought a lot of it was very forced.   The African decor flows through all the way to the bar counter and reception, but the decor tone changes completely in Pure restaurant, which is very earthy (screen made from ‘interwoven’ branches, marine touches added on the tables, hanging crystal stands, again feels overdone).

Generously sized couches and armchairs in the lounge, where the TV was set up, had an English feel.  The coffee table was very low, making it uncomfortable to eat and to make notes at.  I struggled to get comfortable in the armchair throughout my two-hour visit, even adding a scatter cushion, but nothing helped.   The “pub” part of the hotel is nothing more than some bar stools at the bar counter in an open-plan room coming out of the reception, on the way to the restaurant. 

The waiter brought three white leather bound documents, but did not explain the difference between them. One was Pure restaurant’s a la carte menu, not an option due to the uncomfortable table.  The full winelist was brought as well.  The bar menu was difficult to fold open, due to the way it is bound, making it difficult to read the prices.  It had a very small selection of ten food choices, reminding me of a room service menu.  One can order two portion sizes (quantity not specified) of tartar of tuna and spring rolls for R 70 or R 90, a herb salad with mozarella for what sounds like an expensive R 95, croque monsieur costs R 60, and focaccia with a choice of salmon, chicken or parma ham costs R 75.  The Hout Bay Manor sandwich, which includes roast beef and bacon, costs R 75, while the Hout Bay Manor Burger can be ordered for R 75 – it also can be ordered with foie gras, at double the price.   From the menus I could see the ‘Pure’ and ‘Hout Bay Manor’ brands fighting each other, the former young and modern, and the latter old fashioned and steeped in history. 

I chose the croque monsieur, which was just the right snack after a long day, and the presentation of the food on a large white dish was creative, with chips stacked neatly – they were hot but not crisp.  What was a cute touch, but may have just been my imagination, was a decorative touch of aubergine, red pepper and yellow pepper, creating the German flag colours!  Unfortunately they were over-salted, but the idea behind it was much appreciated. The cutlery looked brand new, and was elegant, and a good quality material serviette was offered.  I was a little annoyed when the waiter seemed very anxious to remove my plate and glass so quickly, but this may have been intended as good service.  

The bar list offers two Methode Cap Classiques sparkling wines by the glass, from Ambeloui, which I did not know but discovered to be from Hout Bay, according to a Google search.  Olga costs R 50, and her ‘sister’ Roseanne R56.  Amstel costs R20, Castle R18, Heineken R 20, Savanna R22, and Windhoek R18.   An extensive list of 43 spirits and liqueurs is on offer, and includes Wilderers Grappa, Bols, Cointreau, Butlers, and a further list of cocktails.  The cappuccino I ordered was a lovely foamy one, served with a meringue on the side. 

This review would have been very different had it not been for the wonderful sommelier Tatiana Marcetteau, previously from Delaire Graff.  She recognised me from past visits there, and the level of service rose dramatically, with her checking regularly on my well-being, reminding me very much of Aleks’ care and service at Salt Vodka and Champagne Bar the week before.   Unasked, Tatiana offered to show me a guest bedroom in the half-time, as well as the Pure restaurant.  She also proudly showed me her wine cellar. The receptionist offered me a copy of the hotel’s book, including a book sticker that one can write one’s name into, and detailing the history of the hotel (built in 1871), yet reflecting the colourful decor of the interior.  A photo album feel is created by a swatch of curtaining material, and photographs look as if they have just been glued into the book.   Each of the 21 bedrooms is different, and one can choose the Zulu, the Xhosa or even the Sangoma room!   The book ends off with two pages of photographs, presented as if they are postage stamps.  This is one of the most creative hotel promotional documents I have ever seen.

I would not watch another World Cup match at the hotel again, despite the lovely service from Tatiana, given the lack of guests to watch the soccer with, and the lack of ‘gees’.  But the visit has definitely whet my appetite to visit Pure restaurant, and to try Chef Alex Mueller’s cuisine after the World Cup.  The prices are not cheap, but the restaurant is running a winter special at the moment.   My croque monsieur was better value than a horrid pizza I had eaten at Foresters Arms earlier in the day (review to follow).

Pure at Hout Bay Manor, Baviaanskloof, off Main Road, Hout Bay.  Tel 021 790 0116. www.houtbaymanor.co.za (The website design does not reflect the design of the beautiful hotel book, and appears hard sell in having an accommodation booking window open on every page, even if unrelated to accommodation.  The Home page looks cluttered, and the Blog, Facebook and Twitter links are made very prominent – only problem is that the last post on the blog is dated 12 May, and the hotel tweets about once a month, making its social media marketing tool symbols look like window-dressing!).  Open Tuesdays- Saturdays.

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com