On my way to Hermanus yesterday afternoon, my friend Annette and I saw a sign on the N2 in Elgin, where Thandi’s wines used to be, for Gordon’s Country Kitchen.  We took a chance on finding a table available, and in finding Chef Gordon Manuel at the helm of his new restaurant, previously having been at Gordon Manuel @ South Hill across the road in Elgin for five years.

Chef Gordon started his career at the Durban Hilton, and helped open the Cardiff Hilton. He did a stint on the Crystal Symphony.  I met Chef Gordon at Villa Belmonte Boutique Hotel, where he was the Executive Chef, preparing memorable meals for monthly wine and dine events, of which I attended many. I then caught up with him at a wonderful Slow Food lunch at South Hill in what was a most beautiful building, just after he had opened up there six years ago.  He had eyed the Thandi building for some time, and when Paul Cluver wine estate offered it to him a year ago, he grabbed it, its greater visibility to traffic driving by to or from Hermanus being an obvious reason.  Annette and I had popped in at Paul Cluver for a quick wine tasting before we made our way to Hermanus, so it was fortuitous that we lunched at Gordon’s, especially as we could not get a table at their Fresh restaurant.

Gordon’s Country Kitchen is very country and very casual.  Had I not remembered Gordon’s credentials and remembered the Slow Food lunch, we would have dismissed the restaurant as a country kitchen serving pies and pasta dishes.  The minute Gordon came out to the terrace where we sat, I knew it was him, and we connected to the past meals I had enjoyed.  The first thing that Gordon had done was to have the sign erected on the property, to be visible from the N2.  After having driven past it a number of times recently, the sign did not attract me into the property, but yesterday it did!  Gordon said that they are working on a better entrance to the property, and will develop the restaurant over time.   The interior has a number of mirrors hung over the fireplace, and the lampshades are unusual in being upside down metal buckets with holes in them.  The bathroom gender names are written with enlarged Scrabble letters!

The menu is in a cheap plastic holder, and has three sections: Gourmet, Casual, and Snack, meaning that they can offer each person in a group a style of food which they prefer.  We saw many children playing on a lawn safely below the restaurant deck, one of them being Gordon’s youngest daughter Mia, Gordon emphasising that it is a family eatery. Gordon generously allowed me to take the menu and winelist pages with me.  He took our order, being so hands-on.

The menu is divided into Gourmet, changed weekly; Casual; and Snack.  We only looked at the Gourmet menu, and Annette seemed surprised to see the dishes on offer, given the casual country surroundings.  A board with tomato bread and soft butter was served. Annette ordered two starters: a thick creamy green pea and ham soup with truffle oil, topped with cream, fresh mint, and a crouton, the best dish of those that I tried; and peppered beef carpaccio served with a fresh herb salad, with caramelised tomatoes, water cress, yellow pepper, oregano, croutons, topped with pecorino shavings, and drizzled with a balsamic glaze.  For Annette it was not salty enough.  An alternative starter choice is roasted butternut, caramelised onion, and gorgonzola tart  served with fresh rocket, marinated rosa tomatoes, beetroot pureé, and basil pesto. All starters cost R50. For the main course I ordered slow roasted pork belly and excellent crispy crackling usually served with cream style pap, candied carrots, fresh rosemary, and rounded off with a Calvados jus (R130).  Chef Gordon replaced the pap with his pancetta and rocket mash from the pan-fried Yellowtail dish (R130).  Braised lamb shank is a third main course choice, served with wild mushroom risotto, roasted pearl onions, sautéed vegetables, and a port jus (R150).

Desserts cost R50, and there were two choices: we shared the pear tarte tatin served with caramelized walnut ice cream, but it was disappointing and we could not taste the nuts; vanilla panna cotta with rose water granité and fresh berries was the alternative option.

Breakfast prices range from R22 for a muffin and cheese, to R65 for a full farm breakfast, for which there is a vegetarian alternative (R52).  The Casual menu ranges from R50 for Gordon’s vetkoek to R120 for a grilled rump steak turned in rosemary butter.  One can also order a burger, homemade pie of the day, vegetable lasagne, lamb and tomato bredie, and hake and chips.  The Snack menu has toasted sandwiches (R40), scones with strawberry jam and cream (R25), cup cakes (R20), and more.  There is a children’s menu too.

The wine list is proudly-Elgin, with a few exceptions.   Charles Fox Brut and Brut Rose cost R290, Thandi Shiraz Rose Sparkling R90, and Terre Madre Apple MCC R150. Surprisingly there is no Shiraz on the list. A Whalehaven Cabernet Franc costs R160; Merlots are by Amatra 2011 (R160), and Shannon Mount Bullet 2009  (R360).  Chardonnays range from R150 (Elgin Heights 2011) to R310 (Iona 2012).  Wine by the glass is by Thandi only.

Service was less than satisfactory from the waiters, but we were lucky that Chef Gordon kept an eye on our table.  Unfortunately it caused a problem at the invoicing side, with our bill containing a charge for an additional main course, but this was quickly rectified.

Thandi Farm is an empowerment project by Paul Cluver Wines, which originally had its tasting room in what is now Gordon’s Country Kitchen, as well as a farm stall.  The Thandi wines are now available at The Company of Wine People in Stellenbosch. 

We were surprised by the gourmet oasis we found alongside the N2 yesterday, and Gordon’s Country Kitchen is sure to become a regular stop on the way to Hermanus in future, given how poor the restaurants in Hermanus, with the exception of Creation and The Restaurant at Newton Johnson, are.

Gordon’s Country Kitchen, off N2, Elgin.  Tel (021) 844-0343. www.gordonscountrykitchen.co.za  Facebook only.  Monday – Sunday, Casual menu on Monday and Tuesday only.  Dinner on Wednesday evenings.

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com  Twitter: @WhaleCottage