A week ago I reported on episode one of the #JAN TV series produced and screened on Via TV, on channel 147 on DStv and on Showmax Online. Last night episode 2 (of nine episodes) was broadcast, focusing largely on Chef Jan-Hendrik van der Westhuizen eating visiting Dulceacqua, in Liguria in Italy.
Episode 2 of the #JAN TV series, showcasing Chef Jan-Hendrik and his Michelin-star restaurant in Nice, began with Chef Jan-Hendrik preparing his White Star maize meal breakfast, and reminiscing about his two oumas. He said that he could be creative in the farm on which he grew up in Middelburg in the Transvaal, with two grandmothers who were ‘big foodies’, shaping his love for food and cooking. He had creative freedom here, something few people are privileged to experience, he said.
He described Ouma Hessie as refined, reading Chef Peter Veldsman cookbooks, knowing food, and being creative and sensitive. Ouma Wessie was artistic, voluptuous in giving, with big arms and knuckles. His mother is a mix of the two oumas, a ‘take-away’ Chef, who takes short cuts to prepare meals, and may also over-cook her food.
In facing pressure for constant perfection in his restaurant JAN in Nice, his escape to Apricale in the Ligurian village just over the border from France, north of Ventimiglia, is Chef Jan-Hendrik’s ‘escape place’, his ‘second home’. He had discovered this village, an artist retreat he said, through the wife of the owner of the yacht on which he worked in Monaco, coming from Apricale. It takes him one hour to drive from Nice to Apricale. He said that if he sees a spot on a tablecloth in this village, he will not ignore it, but he will just place a salt cellar or sugar bowl over it. Others don’t appear to care, just enjoying relaxing. When he comes to Apricale life for him is opposite to the one in Nice, there is no hustle and bustle, and it is perfect there.
Chef Jan-Hendrik drove a very small truck to Apricale, a small village which clings to the cliffs of the hill. He described its origins dating back to the Middle Ages, the weathered cobblestones and building stones reflecting the history of the village. He says that when one travels to other countries, one feels small, and this inspires creativity, and new ideas for his dishes.
In the episode Chef Jan-Hendrik travels to
tomorrow neighboring village Dulceacqua, famous for its bridge painted by Matisse. It is named after the sweet water of its river. He stops for lunch at Casa Bottegga, is offered a glass of Prosecco, and says that he feels special here. He ‘skinners’ that Valerie, her fiancé Fabrizio (who looks like ‘liewe Jesus’ he says in Afrikaans), and her ex-husband Maurizio run the restaurant together, sometimes with tempestuousness, which can be very entertaining! But it is Valerie who wears the pants! Chef Jan-Hendrik says that his Italian is less good than his French, but he speaks Italian with a hand movements, in which his fingertips touch.
Chef Fabrizio prepares a layered starter with bread soaked in vinegar, topped with salsa verde, adding flat beans, and a prawn as the final touch. While Chef Jan-Hendrik enjoys this treat, he talks about olive oils, saying that Italians must have it in their blood, as they use it in everything, drizzling it over salads, bruschetta, pasta, pizza, and more. ‘Dammit, dis lekker’, he says. They talk about spilling salt on the table, which brings bad luck, but throwing a pinch of it over one’s shoulder helps for good luck. Chef Valerie has black vegetable ash salt, and Chef Jan-Hendrik gets
an idea for a new dish, sprinkling the black salt on a white plate. Spaghetti alle Vongole, with clams, parsley, garlic, black salt, and olive oil, follows.
Chef Jan-Hendrik visits the cathedral in Dulceacqua, and sits down for a quiet moment. He sees the Church altar filled with asters, which remind him of his Ouma Wessie. This ouma passed away two weeks before his JAN restaurant received its first Michelin star. The Church is peaceful, spiritual, and calms his soul, and one senses that he is connecting with his ouma whilst sitting there.
Chef Jan-Hendrik returns to the apartment
in Apricale, and prepares a pasta dish and dessert. The pasta dish is beautiful, made with layers of white and black (colored with squid ink) spaghetti, rolled up, filled with shellfish, and lemon zest added. The best pasta is made with the freshest eggs, he advises. He creates a butter and naartjie sauce, and recites a poem by DJ Opperman, referring to naartjies, anise,
and cinnamon, which could have been written for Chef Jan-Hendrik. The crayfish pasta rolls are added into the lovely yellow orange sauce, and the dish is finished off with beautiful blue borage flowers.
Ouma Wessie had asters in her home, and Chef Jan-Hendrik discovered that they are edible. He cooks the flowers in milk, creating
a sorbet, which he then rolls in honeycomb. He makes a Malva tart, his Ouma Wessie being the best creator of this typical South African dish.
Episode 2 demonstrated how Chef Jan-Hendrik may have a hectic lifestyle when he is operating his restaurant in Nice, but that Apricale is the place of peace in which he can switch off, find creative inspiration, and where he can live his mantra of ‘Simplicity is The Ultimate Sophistication’!
I chose to write The Book at Apricale in August, and celebrated its completion with a lunch at JAN restaurant in Nice.
Why I chose Apricale village in Liguria Italy in which to write The Book!
South African focus continues to grow at JAN Restaurant in Nice, soon to be joined by MARIA!
‘JAN’, VIA channel 147 on DStv, Tuesdays for nine weeks from today, at 19h30, and Sundays at 20h30. Also on Showmax Online.
Chris von Ulmenstein, WhaleTales Blog: www.chrisvonulmenstein.com/blog Tel +27 082 55 11 323 Twitter:@Ulmenstein Facebook: Chris von Ulmenstein Instagram: @Chris_Ulmenstein
