It is about three months ago that I popped in at Waterkloof outside Somerset West for a spontaneous lunch on a Sunday, just before the Eat Out Awards Gala Dinner in November.  I have long been impressed with the magnificent plating by Chef Gregory Czarnecki, which he has posted on Facebook regularly, and found a restaurant with perfection as far as the kitchen goes, but sadly lacking on service, feeling like service sabotage of the good work done by the chefs!

I arrived reasonably early,  just after midday, and Minette Notjie the hostess tried to find a table for me.  It took quite some time, and with the intervention of Chef Gregory a table was made available. I was told that Sundays are hectic in the restaurant, so was grateful for the tableallocated.  Staff look smart, wearing different colour ties, in red and a beautiful lavender blue, the latter colour being particularly suited to Waterkloof, I felt. The restaurant can seat between 70 – 120 guests, tables being set up on a mezzanine level when the main section is full.  On Sundays all 10 waitrons have to work, due to the booking load.

The menu is beautifully presented in a leather cover, The waiter Ismael could not explain the details of theBeef and Langoustine Tartare dish, despite telling me proudly that he has been at Waterkloof for five years, having been one of the opening team.   It took some time to receive ice water, which had been requested on first interaction with the waiter. The waiters use a Mobile Microsystem to place orders at the table, which are sent direct to the kitchen, looking hi-tech and modern.  Breads were brought to the table, including warm sesame seed and poppy seed  rolls. Morgenster olive oil and balsamic vinegar are on the table, as is butter, it being nice to be offered a choice. Cutlery is by Villeroy & Boch.  Cole & Mason pepper and salt grinders add a smart touch to the table-cloth covered table.  Overall, the restaurant looks chic, stylish, and classy, and has a magnificent view over to Gordon’s Bay.  Cellphone reception is poor from the wine estate, but wifi helped in Tweeting the food photographs.

Chef Gregory sent over an amuse bouche, and it was great interacting with him, as he described the dishes at a reasonable pace, the waiter speaking so fast that he had to repeat the description a number of times.  The amuse consisted of Parma ham, turnip, radish, borage and marshmallow, accompanied by a parsnip velouté – a nice touch would have been if the waiter had poured it.  Interesting was the mix of flavours, the salty ham, the sweet marshmallow, and the creamy sauce.  The restaurant manager Mickey Dollie (no longer working at Waterkloof) had the day off (odd it being on a busy Sunday), so no one came to chat or to check on the satisfaction with the dishes, other than Chef Gregory.  Yet the staff talked amongst themselves near the entrance to the restaurant!  Another hostess in a mini dress walked past, not interacting with my table at all.

Chef Gregory offered me a tasting of the Beef and Langoustine Tartar (at no charge) with beetroot cooked and puréed, yuzu gel, and wasabi mayo, which was sent to the table in error.  I had asked the waiter about it whilst I was ordering, but did not order the dish.  Chef Gregory’s plating is typically on the right hand side of the plate.   My main course order was duck with a sugar-coated sultana fritters, orange slices, and a duck jus.  The duck was somewhat tough and chewy.  At this point the waiter was at my table, and allowed me to pour my own water!

The pre-dessert was a berry granite, fresh berries, and cream, a lovely refreshing sweet mix, part ice cold and part room temperature.  At this point my water jug was removed from the table, but was not returned with more water by the waiter.  My dessert choice contained avocado ice cream, an unusual ingredient, with pineapple custard, emulsified guava, caramelised white chocolate, papaya, cucumber tuiles, jelly, crystalised  ginger, nutmeg meringue, and decorated with pansies.   Despite three requests for the water jug to be returned, it never reappeared!

The service by my waiter was really poor, and my evaluation would have been even worse had Chef Gregory not made regular visits to the table.  Chef Gregory and his restaurant have received a growing number of accolades, but have not managed to crack the Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant list in the two years that they have made the Top 20 short-list. His menu is innovative, his supplies largely sourced from the bio-dynamic farm, and his plating is superb, but the cannot-care service by the waiters is a huge let-down for the kitchen team working so hard to be at near-perfection!  I was told that they struggle to attract good managers and waiters, it being too far for students to drive from Stellenbosch to Waterkloof’s out-of-the-way location.  Waterkloof deserves to make the Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant list, but for that the staff service will have to be dramatically improved!

POSTSCRIPT 23/2:  We have been alerted to the liquor licence problem of Waterkloof, which means that patrons must bring their own wines for evening dining.  For lunches one may buy wine from the wine estate.

The Restaurant, Waterkloof Wines, Sir Lowry’s Pass Village Road, Somerset West. Tel (021) 858-1491.  www.waterkloofwines.co.za  Twitter: @WaterkloofWines  Monday – Sunday Lunch, Monday – Saturday Dinner.

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com  Tel (021) 433-2100, Twitter:@WhaleCottage  Facebook:  click here