I was sorry to miss the vertical tasting of ten vintages of Saronsberg Shiraz at Auslese last week, not being able to attend earlier in the day due to a work commitment. I was however able to taste two of the vintages with the lunch prepared by Aubergine Chef Harald Bresselschmidt.
Saronsberg has been very low-key in the past ten years in terms of its media coverage, and only recently commenced with a PR campaign via Waterford Communications. Its Shiraz has been regarded as one of this country’s best, and has won a 5 star Platter rating for its 2010 and 2011 vintages. Other awards which the Shiraz has won include double gold at the Veritas Awards, Gold at Michelangelo International Wine Awards, Gold at Syrah du Monde, the Red Wine Trophy at the Winemakers’ Choice awards, Gold and trophies at the Decanter Asia awards, and the South African Shiraz Trophy at the International Wine
Challenge. Winemaker Dewaldt Heyns has been building the Saronsberg wine brand since owner Nick van Huyssteen bought the farm in Tulbagh in 2012, the year in which he joined Saronsberg. Half of the farm is planted with Shiraz, due to the good quality red wines made in the region. Dewaldt’s expertise in making the Saronsberg wines led to him being invited to become a member of the Cape Winemakers’ Guild, an association of top winemakers for which membership is by invitation only. Just a few days ago wine writer Tim James included Dewaldt in a list of 12 top winemakers of our country!
Saronsberg Shiraz is made in a style unique to the farm and the Tulbagh region, with a ‘character that is distinctly South African‘. Dewaldt attributes his wines’ success to balance between fruit aroma, wood exposure, tannin extraction, palate weight, and length. He summarises his winemaking philosophy as follows: ‘Get rid of your preconceived ideas about wine; listen to the vineyard and make wines that release the soul of the grapes‘.
We were a large group of writers and trade representatives sitting at one long table at Auslese, a functions venue which belongs to Chef Harald. Despite a small kitchen with restricted cooking facilities, Chef Harald did a good job in creating a three course lunch for a group of 40. For the starter he served a dukkah-spiced tuna with pak choi sautéed with lard, pink grapefruit and Campari aroma, which was paired with the Saronsberg Shiraz 2010. The main course was lamb shank which was braised with winter
savoury, and served with an interesting looking purple polenta, which Chef Harald had cooked with Shiraz, not to my liking in taste nor texture. Added to this was romanesco, a broccoli species, and shitake mushrooms. This course was paired with the Shiraz 2005.
Surprising was the soup spoon which was placed on the table with a fork for the dessert, which was my favourite dish, being savarin with rose geranium and vanilla aroma, and a melange of quince and kumquats, which was served with a delicious nougat ice cream. This course was paired with the Saronsberg Straw Wine 2007. With the
plunger coffee a plate of beautiful looking biscuits was served.
Disclosure: We received a bottle of Saronsberg Shiraz 2011, and a Saronsberg Shiraz-infused salami from Oak Valley Free Range Piggery with our media pack.
Saronsberg Winery, Tulbagh. Tel (023) 230-0707 www.saronsberg.com Twitter: @Saronsberg Monday – Friday 8h30 – 17h00, Saturday 10h00 – 14h00. Closed Sundays and public holidays.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com Twitter: @WhaleCottage
