Steenberg’s Bistro Sixteen82 Chef change almost seamless!

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Bistro 1682 Tasting Room Whale CottageI had so looked forward to meeting Chef Kerry Kilpin at Bistro Sixteen82 yesterday, not thinking that the chef would not be at her post, or to ask when booking if she would be in the kitchen.

I made the booking with Nicole, something I don’t often do, but for the drive between Camps Bay and Constantia it was worth doing, given how full of tourists Cape Town still is.  I had invited regular and loyal Blog reader Lisa Harlow from the UK, on holiday in the Cape currently, to join me for lunch, so that we could try Chef Kerry’s menu.Bistro 1682 Lia Harlow Whale Cottage Lisa visits the Cape twice a year, and is one of our region’s most loyal ambassadors, and is very knowledgeable about our restaurants and wine estates.  I suggested that she start a blog, with all her information about accommodation and restaurants, but she said that she is too busy back home to do so.  She provides input about our region from a UK perspective, and adds feedback about the places she has visited to our Blog.

Nicole was guided by the ‘system‘ in taking my booking, and insisted on my phone number because the system demands it, sounding as if my booking would not be accepted if she did not have the number. As I would be at the restaurant in two hours from the call, I did not see the point.  Then she could not spell ‘Chris’, a very poor reflection on the restaurant, and a bad start to the restaurant experience.

Bistro 1682 Fire Whale CottageGiven a crazy Cape Town day, with terrible fires in the South Peninsula, I had made the decision to stick with my usual way of driving to Constantia via Hout Bay. At the traffic circle leading to Valley Road, men with placards saying ‘Constantia Nek 3 hours‘ looked like they were on strike, and unfortunately did not stop all traffic on this road, to tell us that a truck had crashed at Constantia Nek, and that no traffic could get through to Constantia in the next three hours.  Just past The World of Birds another gentleman in safety clothing told us to turn back, and drive to Constantia via the city  – ouch, costing me an hour to get to Steenberg! The human billboards were a great service if one understood what they were trying to communicate, and if they had been implemented in Camps Bay already!   As luck would have it, there were roadworks everywhere, between Llandudno and Camps Bay, then on De Waal Drive, these roads carrying heavier than usual traffic loads as a result of the closure of Main Road, and then garden maintenance on the M3, the City of Cape Town not thinking to take action to open up lanes of roads to ease the congested traffic.

Thankfully the ‘check-in’ at the boom at the entrance to Steenberg was smooth and without hiccups, usually a problem, but the magic password ‘reservation’ seemed to open the boom. It was only at this point that one realised how close the fire was to Steenberg (earlier yesterday I had seen a Tweet from the wine estate, thanking the firefighters for keeping the fire away from them).  Dark smoke clouds came from behind the mountain, on the Hout Bay side.

After the crazy drive, it was a relief to take a seat at the table with Lisa, who had waited for me Bistro 1682 Interior Whale Cottagefor half an hour.  Luckily the Twitter DM worked, wifi and 3G connectivity being a disaster in the restaurant, meaning that no Tweets can be sent from there. Not receiving calls over lunch maybe isn’t such a bad thing after all!  I told Manager Nathalie about the booking problem, and she echoed Nicole, in saying that is how the system works! She was very distant and unfriendly, and did not bother to check on our well-being at all, and came across as rude when I left. Perhaps the heat of the day was getting to her pregnancy.  Lovely was Caroline van Schalkwyk coming to say hello, handling the marketing of Steenberg wines.  She offered her assistance, should we require it, and sent a glass of MCC to the table for Lisa to enjoy, as I did not want to drink and drive.  Chef Kerry Kilpin took over from Chef Brad Ball three months ago, having moved across from The Food Barn.  Chef Brad has moved to Peddlars on the Bend, now renamed Peddlars & Co, regarded as an odd move by many, as he set up Bistro Sixteen82 five years ago.  Chef Kerry’s kitchen was run by Sous Chef Odette yesterday, Nathalie not knowing her surname!

Bistro 1682 Beef Carpaccio Whale CottageOur waiter was patient with us catching up on getting to know each other first, so we took some time to look at the menu. The separation of Starters and Mains is very faint, and I only saw it when I wrote the blogpost.  Lisa ordered the Seared Beef Carpaccio (R85), an absolute hit of Chef Brad Ball, then called Beef Tataki.  Odd was the aioli drizzled over it, something which Chef Brad had never added, spoilingBistro 1682 Beef Carpaccio 2 Whale Cottage the taste if one is used to his original recipe. Chef Kerry has toned down the spiciness, so overall it was disappointing for me, but Lisa loved it, not having had it before. I ordered a take-away portion, which did not have radishes added, and was also covered with rocket. I ordered a perfect chicken liver parfait, served with an unusual nectarine chutney, as well as four minute slices of toasted brioche, too few for the generous portion of parfait (R64).

Bistro 1682 Angelfish Whale CottageFor her main course, Lisa ordered angelfish, which oddly was placed on a bed of aioli, covering the whole plate (R148). The dish is called Sustainable Fish, and reflects a commitment to SASSI by Chef Brad to only serve green-listed fish.  The pan-fried fish was plated on top of an Asian green salad. served with a lime and chili vinaigrette, which Chef Brad used in his Beef Tataki.  We felt that the aoili base was completelyBistro 1682 Prawn Tempura Whale Cottage Whale Cottage overdone.  Lisa commented that sesame seeds seem to be a Chef speciality, being prominent in her Beef Carpaccio and Angelfish dishes.  I loved my Tempura Prawns, a starter dish, three prawns served with harissa mayo, coriander (an excellent paired herb), and a rice noodle salad (R88).  It had black sesame seeds too!

Other starter dishes are a Saldanha oyster (R22), a Panko crusted cheese fritter (R65), smoked trout salad (R94), and fish tartare (R78).  Other main courses offered are risotto of the day (a vegetarian one of courgette and sunflower seeds) in two sizes (R75/R118), ricotta gnocchi (R65/R98), fresh black mussels (R65/R120), roast pork fillet (R168), braised lamb loin ( a new dish introduced by Chef Kerry, stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes and ricotta, replacing Chef Brad’s famous pork belly, which is now a breakfast dish, our waiter said, at R185), and an open steak sandwich (R115). A special of the day was a 220 gram AAA Chalmar beef steak (‘midway between organic and free-range’ our waiter explained creatively!), at R195.  The risotto dish is changed once a week, but the menu is changed seasonally.

Bistro1682 Dessert Whale CottageWe weren’t going to have a dessert (all at R64), but decided to share the Chocolate Streusel, on which was placed a slice of salted caramel, vanilla crème, chocolate cremeux, and accompanied by a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.  Other dessert options are passion fruit panna cotta, and cranberry Bread & Butter pudding (odd for a 30ºC day).

Later afternoons and early evenings are Tapas time, and the waiter seemed to indicate that only a handful of Chef Brad’s Tapas dishes are still on the menu (Patatas Bravas, charcuterie platter, and sticky pork). Chef Kerry has brought back some of Chef Brad’s Tapas dishes from earlier days, none costing more than R89 (charcuterie), and most are around the R45 mark.

Paying for the meal, I had not transferred enough money across to my credit card before entering the premises, having forgotten how dire the internet/3G situation is in the restaurant, and I could not transfer any more money across via my phone.  The credit card machine also was not working well, so I transferred the money into my credit card via the restaurant computer, whereafter the payment worked, an embarrassing end to our lunch, and one which held up Lisa and I, both having to run off in separate directions. Nathalie said that they have tried everything to improve wifi and cellphone reception in the restaurant.

Before one knew that Chef Brad was leaving, he increasingly was not in the Sixteen82 kitchen, especially on weekends.  One hopes that this does not happen to Chef Kerry, and that she is as visible to her patrons as Chef Brad was when he was there. Many of the waiters have been at the restaurant for some time, and Nathalie has been too, but she clearly is taking strain, being close to having her baby.  Our waiter did well, but I had to request my take-away beef tataki a number of times.  Chef Kerry needs to reduce her use of sesame seeds, three of our four dishes having them!  When we reviewed the restaurant five years ago, we praised its value for money (the Beef Tataki starter costing R49 then!), which seems to no longer apply. However, a good price range of dishes is offered.

Bistro Sixteen82, Steenberg wine estate, Constantia.  Tel (021) 713-2211.  www.steenberg-vineyards.co.za   Twitter: @Bistro1682.  Mondays – Sundays, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, 9h00 – 20h00.

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com  Tel (021) 433-2100, Twitter:@WhaleCottage  Facebook:  click here

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One reply

  1. Phoebe Gunning

    We have received your disparaging comment, but cannot post it as it does not meet our guidelines for comments.

    I do take offence if someone cannot spell ‘Chris’. Would it make a difference if I arrived for my booking in the name of ‘Chris’ or ‘Kris’? I would never have seen it. It is an unnecessary waste of time. Why put someone on Reservations who does not know how to spell?

    If you clean up your comment and remove the disparaging parts, I will post your comment.

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