Last night I attended an interesting talk on ‘The Great White Shark: a Global Perspective’, given by shark expert and Apex eco-tour operator Chris Fallows at the One&Only Cape Town. Chris’ talk covered the three key seal areas attracting Great White Sharks in South Africa, as well as other well-known shark areas in the world.

I was invited by Ian Manley, the hotel’s PR consultant, to Chris’ talk, one of two (the second will focus on the relationship between Orca killer whales and Great White Sharks tonight), in a series of Guest Speaker Talks, which include Joanne Lifson on 18 June on ‘Lights Canine Action’, Colin Bell speaking on rhino extinction on 3 July, ‘Africa’s Three Big Cats‘ by Lorne Sulcas on 15 July, and more. One&Only Cape Town ambassador Aubrey Ngcungama introduced Chris, who has documented his shark adventures in his book ‘Great White: The Majesty of Sharks‘, and who has filmed documentaries about the Great White Shark with Discovery Channel, the BBC’s Planet Earth, and National Geographic.   In the hotel reception area, a shark cage with diver, as well as a model of a small shark, were set up to attract attention to the talks programme.

Prior to the start of the talk Chris and I chatted, and he explained that Orcas, known as ‘killer whales‘, are not whales at all, but are members of the dolphin family.   Orcas are known to kill whales, by pushing them under water and making them drown.   In South Africa Great White Sharks can be found where there are concentrations of seals, in three regions:

*   Seal Island in False Bay:  in this bay the first fatal shark attack occurred at Boulders Beach, then a whaling station, in 1902.  Shark cage diving was first introduced here in 1988, and not in Gansbaai, as is commonly thought.  Seal Island is in the middle of False Bay, and is home to about 64000 seals, three species of cormorants, and a few penguins. From late February to May the Great White Sharks return to Seal Island, especially to the northern tip where they are most likely to find sick or injured seals.  Whilst much smaller, the seals try to fight back, trying to get to the sharks eyes.  Seals have agility and endurance, helping them in not being caught by sharks.  Their whiskers are sensitive to picking up water movement, giving them a warning about impending shark danger. Sharks breaching out of the water do so not to attract attention but purely to catch the seal they are chasing.  We were shown amazing photographs and a video of breaching sharks, the 1 ton sharks flying above the water.  Of the South African shark locations, Seal Island has the highest ‘predations‘, with 46 predatory events counted in a four hour period.  Seals are most likely to be hunted at sunrise, and on full moon days.  Chris praised the City of Cape Town for its proactive shark spotting program, and compared it to the Australian authorities, who try to cull Great White Sharks.  Tagging sharks locally has helped to study their migration patterns, sharks having been seen to travel up to Madagascar and Mozambique before returning to Seal Island.  Chris said that tagging is less frequently done, the sharks being identified by unusual markings or their fins, and named, for future identification, a less invasive identification technique.  Breaching Great White Sharks are most likely to be seen in False Bay.

*   Dyer Island off Gansbaai: this is now the most well-known shark area due to the interaction between people and sharks via shark cage diving between Dyer island and Geyser Rock, known as Shark Alley, even though this is available in Simonstown too.  Chris was saying to me at dinner that SA Tourism does not acknowledge how important ‘wildlife tourism’ is (he defines sharks as wildlife too), 80000 visitors doing shark cage diving at Dyer Island per annum!  Chris has done numerous experiments with sharks, and he said that they are more likely to swim away from humans.

*   Seal Island off Mossel Bay: shark cage diving started here in 1996.  The island is a mere 800 meters from the Hartenbos beach, which is popular for swimming.  He told us about Nicole, a tagged shark that was observed swimming to the west side of Australia in 99 days, and then returned almost immediately, taking a year for the return journey.

Shark cage diving first started in Australia. and the movie ‘Jaws’ was shot in part of the country’s west coast.  Stewart Island off New Zealand has the southernmost shark colonies, who stick together in groups, as opposed to our local sharks being loners. Here sharks have been measured  up to 21 feet in length, and as being 30 – 40 years old.  Guadeloupe Island near Mexico is another popular shark area, and with its cobalt blue waters it is the best area in the world to see sharks underwater.  Here the water is so clear that the seals see the sharks coming, hence most seals are caught when it gets darker.  Dead whales are particularly attractive to adult sharks, but they also eat other sharks or dolphins.

In conclusion Chris told us that no mating of Great White Sharks has ever been seen, nor the birth of their pups. It is the ultimate challenge for Great White Shark experts to document.

After the talk we went through to Reuben’s where we enjoyed a generous Buffet dinner, prepared by Chef Vicky Stott and her team.  The cold starters consisted of artisanal breads already on the table (with olives); a smoked paprika and honey roasted chicken and penne salad;  a trio of tomato, basil and goats cheese;  Salad Niçoise;  couscous salad with peas, mint, mixed peppers  and feta; pickled fish with apricot jam; a yummy chicken liver parfait with apple chutney and brioche; white fish brandade; DIY salad ingredients; and four vinaigrettes.  The Hot selection consisted of good beer battered hake medallions available with capers, tartar sauce, and lemon; peri peri chicken, lemon and herb roasted vegetables with Roquefort butter; pasta Provençal;  slightly tough Cape Malay lamb curry with basmati rice and sambals; unusual beef and ale stew; pepper and mustard crusted sirloin; slow roasted honey glazed leg of lamb with lavender and garlic; roast chicken; roast potatoes; and Yorkshire pudding.   The dessert selection consisted of fruit slices; mini apple crumble; double chocolate brownies; buttermilk panna cotta, cocoa jelly and caramelized pear; berry Pavlova, and meringues.

Sommelier Luvo Ntezo had to be in two places at the same time, but was there to greet us and to organise a glass of Steenberg Merlot 2010.   We had excellent company at our table, with Chris and his wife Monique, Dawn Jorgensen and her son Eden, new hotel Marketing Executive Ashleigh Fleming (left), and Ian.

Reuben’s, One&Only Cape Town, V&A Waterfront.  Tel (021) 431-5888.  www.capetown,oneandonlyresorts.com  Twitter: @OOCapeTown Guest Speaker Series: R275 for talk and Buffet dinner.

Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com  Twitter: @WhaleCottage