It was by chance that I discovered Labotessa Café in the Labotessa Boutique Hotel on Church Square in Parliament Street in Cape Town two weeks ago. It is part of the Labotessa Hotel, in a beautifully renovated five story building reminiscent of Amsterdam from its exterior, exuding beauty and style.
I visited Labotessa twice, and on my second visit I was lucky to meet the owner Johan du Plessis, and to be shown around the Hotel by him.
I was on my way to check out the new Korean restaurant Alium which has opened in the neighbouring Speaker’s Corner Building when I saw the signs to Labotessa Cafe for the first time, a surprise as I have been to the nearby Pilcrow & Cleaver and Fideli’s on many an occasion
. I had to have a look, and immediately ordered an Earl Grey tea and the most delicious Appeltaart (their spelling) with cream (R52). I was hooked and promised to come back for lunch. The classiness was evident as soon as I received my TWS tea, served in a teapot and cup and saucer set by Le Creuset, a first for me. While the presentation of the cake on the plate was not perfect, the slice having appeared to have broken whilst it was cut, its taste was delicious, and the freshly whipped cream was the proverbial cherry on top.
On my second visit a week later over lunchtime, I sat outside at a courtyard Café-style table, on a glorious sunshine day, at a water feature and fountain,
surrounded by luscious plants, shielding the area from the rest of Church Square. I was welcomed back by the lady who had looked after me the previous week. While she checked on me regularly, there was a breakdown in the communication between her and the waiter, in terms of what I ordered and requested. I had chosen to sit at a table in the full sun, but the waiter questioned my choice of table. I had asked the supervisor/manager for my dish to be brought to a table nearest the entrance, being shaded, to take the photograph there. He came straight to my table. An added negative experience was a couple talking very loudly two tables away, meaning that I had to every word, a request to him to lower the volume leading to a torrent of abuse by his female companion, including that a person of my age should not be wearing a sundress! The lovely music piped into the courtyard did not hide their loudness.
I ordered a scrambled egg with rye toast, avocado, and spinach. It was a surprise to be told that the kitchen had run out of avocado, when Fideli’s across the square sells them. I chose mushrooms instead. The dots of butter were not enough for the slices of toast, so I requested more. It was an expensive breakfast dish at R100, and not very exciting. I ordered a green Juice too,
refreshing on the hot day. I could not resist a slice of the Appeltaart and cream. Cutlery is in stylish rose gold.
Things improved when the noisy couple left, and shortly thereafter meeting Johan, who offered to show me around the Hotel. I had already gone up the circular staircase from the Café to the mezzanine Level, housing a long table, a few round tables, and a reception area for
new guests, with an artist Vermeer-inspired cushion. A large Vermeer print hangs in the Café itself, a collection of blue plates hanging on the wall adding to the Dutch decor feel.
Johan told me that Labotessa opened in 2019, a few months before Lockdown began. He created the name, it not having a specific meaning. The building is steeped in history, the oldest on the Square, dating back to 1677. The renovation of the building was a seven year project, led by Johan, who said that he is
not an architect, but a hotel developer. Due to the age of the building all changes had to be approved by the Heritage Council. The building has served several purposes, including being a temporary home to the Groote Kerk congregation when the church had to be largely rebuilt in 1821 – 1822. A fascinating fact is that the section of
Parliament Street, running past the Groote Kerk, was originally named Grave Street, containing a mass grave after a pandemic! A music recording studio, a legal firm, and the De Villiers Graff Trust have been previous tenants and owners in the building.
Seven spacious bedrooms are spread over five
floors, three floors housing two suites each, and the top two floors are a duplex 350 square meter Presidential Suite with three bedrooms, a plunge pool, a kitchen, lounge, and two terraces with a magnificent view over Church Square, the Slave Lodge, and Lions Head. Johan moved to Switzerland at the age of 14, and completed his Masters in Hotel Development there. His studies as well as time spent living in Amsterdam guided him in creating the perfect hotel suites, a tranquil home away from home. Downstairs a second entrance leads one to
the French-inspired Fragrance Boutique, stocking French Diptyque fragrances, candles, room fragrances, and bathroom amenities. No extras are charged by Labotessa, for example the drinks
in the mini bar. The 65 square meter suites cost around R500o per day.
While no expense has been spared in the interior design of Labotessa Café and Hotel, creating a luxury space with quality details, the staff is not of a calibre matching the five-star status of the Hotel, and its quality accessories. Other than the fabulous apple tart I found the lunch menu choice and the breakfast served disappointing, once again not matching the standard of the hotel. But its location and privacy is unusual, feeling like an escape from an otherwise bustling city centre.
Labotessa Café, Labotessa Boutique Hotel, 5 Church Square, Parliament Street, Cape Town. Tel 021 010 6600. www.labotessa.com Instagram: @labotessahotel Daily 8h00 – 16h00
Chris von Ulmenstein, WhaleTales Blog: www.whaletalesblog.com www.chrisvonulmenstein.com/blog Tel +27 082 55 11 323 Twitter:@Ulmenstein Facebook: Chris von Ulmenstein Instagram: @Chrissy_Ulmenstein @MyCapeTownGuide
