What a clever move of The Lawns, an outdoor-only daytime restaurant at The Roundhouse in Camps Bay,  to erect a massive Marquee on one level of the lawns and turn it into a Winter pop-up restaurant called Steak Club. The Lawns outside-seating restaurant will continue to serve Breakfast and Lunch outside.

I attended its opening a week ago, invited with predominantly representatives of the alcoholic beverage Trade. We were served canapés representing dishes on the menu, prepared by Chef Stephen Mandes, whom I had last experienced when Mondiall still operated in the Waterfront a few years ago. He remembered my aversion to onions from way back then. He is a past winner of an Ultimate Braai Master series.

I arrived straight from a meeting, a little early, lucky in that I was able to park reasonably close by, and see the location of the Marquee and the outside Grill while it was still light. Staff of Salsify at The Roundhouse appeared apprehensive when I saw some outside the entrance, its restaurant diners now looking on to the Marquee, blocking the Camps Bay view.

Another luck in getting there a little early was meeting wine consultant Gemma Botha, who had just finished her training of the staff about wine service.  She came to chat with me at the central whisky counter, and we did so throughout the event, introducing me to guests she knew. There were many familiar faces, and Alison Pearce of Nalu Wines came to chat, taking over the Hawaiian name of her son’s surf shop and using it for her wine brand, ‘nalu’ meaning wave. I chatted to  Salvin Hirschfield of Son of a Butcher was there too, telling me how badly small cattle farmers have been hit by the Lockdown.  His 45 – 60 day matured pasture-reared meat is used in the pop-up. Aubrey Ngcungama attended too, not having seen him in a number of years.

The venue has been minimally decorated, in a gentleman’s club style, with tan leather couches,  and Whisky bar counter cladding, and green velvet bar chairs. Tables and chairs for two persons are dotted around the venue, seating 60 persons in total. A central whisky bar has a tower display of predominantly Johnny Walker products, as well as Singleton whisky. Another Bar has been refurbished at the far end of the venue, being The Lawns Bar, a full service wine and spirits bar.

I met JP Scholtz, operating The Lawns and a business partner of Ray Mordt. He explained the concept, laughing when he said that many restaurants close in winter, but he is opening a four month pop-up. He described it as an elite and exclusive pop-up restaurant, with limited seating capacity. JP confirmed that Luke Dale Roberts and Salsify have parted ways.

It is very dark in the marquee without power, and we were in Loadshedding when I arrived. Little candle holders had been set up on tables and at the bar counter, but these were not adequate for lighting. Candelabras would give a fabulous atmosphere for future Loadshedding evenings. Chandeliers have been installed, but these could not operate all the time during the event, even when the power came back on. Luckily the Whisky Bar counter had under-lighting, so I could photograph my canapés in good light. Gemma sent me some photographs of the furnishing, which she had taken earlier in the day.

I ordered a glass of Lomond Shiraz from a friendly wine steward, and settled into my bar chair, being spoilt by the very friendly and knowledgeable waiters, serving the canapés in disposable bamboo containers. They also came by regularly to remove the empties. We were served the following, all prepared outside of the Marquee:

#  Oysters with pickled onion, lime, and Tabasco caviar (R30 each, six for R160)

#   Oysters Thermidor, a first for me, delicious (R245 for six)

#.  Herb-crusted Snails with toasted baguette (R125), something I’ve never been brave enough to eat

#  Fire-Baked pumpkin ravioli, served with citrus and herb butter, and toasted pumpkin seed brittle (R85)

Other starters include peri-peri chicken livers, soup of the day, a three-cheese fondue (R355 for three persons), and a Baked Dalewood Camembert (R175 for two persons).

#   Fillet steak on potato Dauphinois (R455 for 300 gram)

#.  Rump steak and onion rings (R365 for 450 gram)

#   And the ultimate, strips of butter-soft Wagyu (SQ), which we ate without cutlery, brought on platters, superb.

Steaks are served with a side and a sauce, included in the price.  Other main courses are three pasta options, one with Beef Rump.  Table sharing dishes for four persons are also offered, at R1195 for a whole salt baked Franschhoek trout, a Tomahawk steak (1,2 kg for R1195), and a 1,2 kg T-bone steak for R1295.

As it was getting late, a number of us left at this point, having stayed to taste the Wagyu. I managed to get a little paper cup of apple crumble and Spekulaas ice cream (R65) on the way to my car. It was in walking out of the marquee that I saw  Chef Stephen’s massive grill outside. Other desserts offered are sticky toffee pudding, also at R65, and Chocolate and Kirsch fondant (R95).

The Steak Club is open from Wednesdays to Saturdays, but JP is open to trying Lunch service if there is a demand, and to open on other nights of the week.

In these unusual times the Steak Club is an unusual dining concept. JP has invited me to return to try the full dining experience.  The staff was well-trained and friendly, and the food excellent, even if we only tasted tiny canapés of some of the dishes.  The entrance door is open and there is a staff entrance at the far end of the Marquee, possibly making it chilly on a cold evening, so dressing warmly is advised.

Steak Club, The Lawns, Rotunda, Camps Bay, Cape Town. Tel 021 437-4348. Book on the Dineplan App or What’s App 067 926 1313. Open from 1730 – 21h00.

 

Chris von Ulmenstein, WhaleTales Blog: www.whaletalesblog.com www.chrisvonulmenstein.com/blog Tel +27 082 55 11 323 Twitter:@Ulmenstein Facebook: Chris von Ulmenstein, My Cape Town Guide/Mein Kapstadt Guide Instagram: @Chrissy_Ulmenstein @MyCapeTownGuide